What we saw at Photo London 2022

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As the UK’s largest photography festival begins at Somerset House, Billy Barraclough captures an early morning at the fair, and we round-up some of highlights

Frank Horvat (1928-2021) believed that will photography was a miracle. According to his daughter Fiammetta Horvat, who curated her father’s exhibition at Photo Greater london this year, he considered each image “a small miracle” – a hybrid moment of the real and fictional; seized, captured and immortalised by the lens.  

Horvat’s exhibition alone is enough cause to visit Photo London this weekend. It is almost value bypassing the main pavilion completely, and heading straight down towards the Embankment Galleries in the much reaches of Somerset House. The Italian-born fashion and documentary photographer is known pertaining to challenging the status quo of style photography. In 1947, aged 15, Horvat sold his valuable stamp collection to buy a camera, and from the late-1950s he had a lengthy career shooting designed for Life magazine, Vogue , Harper’s Bazaar, and more. He took models out of the studio and directly into unconventional locations – outdoors a London butchers, to the back of a Parisian bus, or on the sidewalk within New York, for example.  

The Red Bustle, by Nick Knight 1986 designed for Yohji Yamamoto.

In his period, Horvat was always experimenting and adapting to brand new technologies. Shown in seite an seite to these forward-thinking images, the same can be said for this year’s Master of Photography, Chip Knight. The British fashion photographer presents a selection of crucial work from the 1980s to today, including collaborations with iconic designers like Yohji Yamamoto, John Galliano, and Alexander McQueen. The centrepiece to Knight’s exhibition of huge fashion images is an in-progress sculptural piece about body positivity. As the arches of the basement space echo with the soundscape of an trial and error film,   it becomes very clear that Knight is an performer who transcends the moderate of photography.

“Photography was obviously a gateway into so many various other art forms, ” states Knight, who began learning medicine before swapping to fine-art. “I picked up the camera one Saturday mid-day, and from then I had been obsessed… The camera for me personally has been a passport to life. ” Like Horvat, the 63-year-old photographer is always looking to improvement his practice – whether or not it’s through collaboration, brand new materials, or technologies want AI and virtual reality. This particular month, he plans to launch an educational TikTok series about the history of pictures.

While Horvat and Dark night shine in the Embankment Art galleries, the Discovery section steals the show on ground level. Curated by 1000 Words ’ editor Tim Clark, the dedicated area for emerging galleries is captivating through the outset. Visitors are welcomed by an interactive installation: Walter and Zoniel’s Rainbow Camera . In this giant camera-slash-scanner, we are invited to create an abstract digital collage. In the same entranceway really are a row of porcelain accent pieces, presented by Gallery FUMI. Made by the duo called Glithero, these are printed with silver gelatin photograms associated with coastal seaweed. Towards the left side of the wing, look out for another set of photograms simply by recent RCA-graduate Melanie Issaka . Exhibited by the artist-led platform Hi-Noon, the images investigate actual physical and conceptual nature of Blackness.

D on’t miss the presentation of work by Max Miechowski from Open up Doors Gallery. Known for his poetic documents of everyday life, Miechowski was deservedly chosen as this year’s Photo Greater london x Nikon Emerging Professional photographer of the Year. Exploring themes of time, community, and strength, his sensitive portrayal of people and place grasp the subtleties that underlie our collective human being experiences.  

As for the major beast of the fair – a core group of seventy five galleries – our suggestion is to make discoveries on your own. Spread across the central pavilion and the East and the Western world wings, one could spend hours drifting booth-to-booth.   These solo presentations comprise the majority of exhibition area at Photo London, where everything has a price tag. Except if you’re a collector, you may find more interesting – plus affordable – bodies of work in the publishers section. Here, you’ll find stalls selling special edition books, periodicals and prints, from Aperture , Setanta , Overlapse , Thames and Hudson and more. Check for a presentation of textbooks longlisted for The Kraszna-Krausz Honours, displaying monumental publications by Deana Lawson , Rhiannon Adam , Agatha Kay, and Gilles Peress , among many more .

But whatever you do, do not forget to retrieve your complimentary cocktail from the Campari club, and enjoy the good weather while it lasts. For there are couple of places more pleasurable than the huge Georgian courtyard of Somerset House, drenched in the character of the sun.

Picture London takes place at Somerset House, London, until 15 May 2022.

Marigold Warner

Online Editor

Marigold Warner joined the British Diary Photography in April 2018, and currently holds the positioning of Online Editor. She studied English Literature and History of Art at the College of Leeds, followed by an MA in Magazine Journalism from City, University associated with London. Her work has been published by titles including the Telegraph Magazine, Huck, Gal-dem, Disegno, and the Architects Publication.

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